I have been using a pair of .5mm carbon rod spars top and bottom. Use a single pass of an X-acto knife with ruler to cut a *very* shallow slot in the EPP, about 20” long, maybe half an inch forward of the motor mount. Lightly coat the spars with a flexible epoxy (West Marine G-Flex) or other suitable glue, then separate the wing skin a bit with one hand while gently pressing the spar into the slot with the other. Work slowly and use light finger pressure as these delicate carbon rods snap way too easy with rough handling. Let dry overnight then fasten your seatbelt!

Cheers,

-Larry

If you wish to build a blindingly quick Wild Wing, here are some tips…

The old adage about building your airplane light still holds. My observation is that if you can achieve an AUW of 5.5 oz, you are rewarded with a quick, highly maneuverable wing (even if you don’t have the hottest motor out there). In order to accomplish this goal, you do need to wary of weight during each step of the fitting out and build process. Here are some suggestions (I do admit a couple of these may be contrary to the “cheap fun” spirit of combat wings…):

1. Abandon all of the kit’s hardware.

2. Don’t use wing spars. If you feel compelled to, try a pair of 20” long .5mm carbon rods top and bottom, just forward of your motor mount.

3. Use glue sparingly. Take care to achieve a perfect mechanical fit prior to gluing. UHU glue seems to be lighter than epoxy or goop.

4. Use paint sparingly. The Tamiya TS spray paints are much lighter than the garden variety Rustoleums.

5. Use 6mm EPP for the fins.

6. Use a 12-16 gram motor.

7. Go for the lightest possible ESC.
The 6 gram Castle Phoenix 10 is good.
If you know your motor’s current draw with a GWS 5043 prop, you may be able to get by with a 4 gram Castle Thunderbird 6.
After your wing is completed, trim any excess length from your ESC’s motor leads.
Don’t use bullet connectors larger than 2mm.
Make sure to provide adequate airflow for your ESC.

8. Use 4-6 gram servos as well as very light weight control rods, EZ connectors, and elevon horns.

9. Use the lightest possible receiver. For 72 Mhz, the 4 gram Castle Berg 4L is hard to beat. For Spectrum 2.4 Ghz, the 2 gram AR6300 Nanolite receiver along with JST connector servos (Blue Bird BMS-303JST) should work great.

10. Keep weight in mind when shopping for Lipos. The 15C Thunder Power 2S 730 mAh is a common choice (34 grams). Depending upon your motor’s current draw, consider using a 25C Dualsky 2S 450 (28g), or 15C Thunder Power 2S 480 (23g).

11. Plan ahead to get the CG to come out ~7 inches from the leading edge so you can avoid adding ballast later. Do a mock up by taping all of the main components to the wing and checking CG prior to actually mounting your {motor, ESC, receiver, servos, Lipo}.
It seems most of us inset our motors about 2 inches forward of the trailing edge.
You might consider abandoning the factory servo pockets and cutting new ones just forward of the old location.

12. I recommend to mechanically set up your elevons for +- 1.25” throw, but tone it down to 50% via the dual rate or ATV menus prior to maiden flight. You can adjust later per your individual flying style. You will find these lower flying weight wings are far more resistant to tip stalls.

There you have it. Though I’m occasionally complemented on my flying skills, the reality is…..it’s the building skills that make me look good.

Cheers,

-Larry

Dave

Got a spare motor that I can purchase?

Brian