Taming Servo Leads
Servo wires are small — 24 gauge is typical — and the pins that crimp to their ends are fragile.
So when I’m confronted with a servo lead that’s too long — this happens often — I usually ignore the problem and wad the extra wire at one end or the other.
If the lead is too short, I use a servo extension: convenient, but it adds weight and it’s never exactly the right length.
I’ve tried shortening the wires and crimping on new connectors, and I’ve botched the job badly.
How many ways can you waste a servo pin?
- Crimp it onto the insulated part of the wire, rather than the conductors
- Squish the servo pin, missing the wire altogether
- Deform the servo pin, so you can never properly insert it into the shell that holds the pins
Blame the crimping tool. That’s my first impulse. Buy a new crimping tool.
Crimping Science. But when I fail with the new tool I realize that there’s a science to crimpery and that I’m stuck in the Dark Ages with two crimping tools but no light.
In the absence of a better alternative, I sometimes splice a servo lead to shorten it. If I have enough length to work with, splicing is easy, albeit less elegant. I minimize the thickness of the splice by cutting the wires at 3/8-inch intervals and insulate with a single piece of heat-shrink tubing. By cutting the wires at an offset, I insure that the wires won’t short.
My friend Bruce Crawford once explained proper crimping technique to me but at the moment I had nothing to crimp, so most of his insights quickly floated out of my head.
Seeing Big. I do remember that he advised using a magnifier — he likes the kind you wear on your head — so you can clearly see the pin, the wire and the slot in the crimping tool. He also pointed out that the pin has two clasping sections: one is designed to hug the insulation while the other clings to the wire.
The other day, Bruce sent me a link to a Connectors PDF file created by Hansen Hobbies that seems to answer every question about the care and feeding of servo leads, housings and wires.
An Honest Guide. It’s clearly written, amply illustrated and, as author Chris Hansen writes, “an honest tutorial rather than an advertisement for our products.”
One of his coolest tips is how to strip all three strands of servo wire simultaneously, and he offers much more useful and time-saving information.
I read it and liked it so much that I saved it to my hard disk so I can consult it the next time I need to grapple with an untamed servo lead.
Tags: Radio Control, Tools.
Crimping the pin/socket on the wire is not science, is $$. If you have the proper crimping tool, not the $10-20.00 pair of plier that they claim is a “crimper” but the 100-150.00 proper crimping tool that the manufacturers use, then it is easy. Also the servo connector was invented at the time 28 AWG wire is the norm. Now they or you try to stuff the 22AWG into the same connector housing, like squeezing me into a pair of 30″ waist pant. Don’t try to visualize that, not a pretty picture, don’t even go there…..
Yes indeed – very partial to this magnifier: OptiVisor and the like.
I also like the Donegan Light.
-Bruce
I would love to use the kinda tool that Brian is talking about. But I’ve been able to make a cheap Taiwan crimper that I think I got from Perry work. The crimper does have an anvil that is shaped to handle the two different parts of the crimp that Pete talks about above – one part is the stripped wire and the other is the insulation. This is easier to picture looking at a pin that has already been crimped.
Crimping tools are an incredible extravagance to me. I use needle-nose pliers and @$*! words…
Here is a tutorial if anyone is interested:
http://ashtekelectronics.com/shop/crimping-tutorial-a12.html