First, the Hextronic 24-gram 3000 Kv model from Hobby City is acceptable with a 5030 prop. It’s a $10 motor (plus about $1.50 shipping when you order two). It will not be as strong as the motors we’re using, but if you want cheap and dirty, the test results were fine. I metered three with (as expected) three different results. One was quite good, the other two not bad. Efficiency varied up to four points and power by over 1/2 ounce top-to-bottom. But even bottom would do the job. So that’s something to consider.

How do they compare? Produces about the same thrust as the motors we’re using, with about the same power input. But: since it’s using the 5030 rather than the 5043 prop, it goes about 12mph slower. This translates to a shorter but less dramatic runup for attack moves. During 90 percent of the flight, it means nothing.

ALSO:

I have experimented some more with using the 24-gram motors to rewind and got a perfectly reasonable result — about on par with the smaller 16-gram we currently run. (Actually a shade more power and efficiency, but you have to carry an extra 8 grams, so it’s really close to a wash).

This means now there are two usable rewind options that are quite strong, and at least one motor you can get right off the shelf that will do an adequate job at a very low cost.

Oh yeah, I did test the 3000 Kv with a 5043. Efficiency went through the floor and amps were unacceptably high: over 12. That would require a bigger battery and (maybe) ESC, driving the weight up enough to nullify any gain from running the higher-pitch prop. So forget that.

Numbers indicate it’s possible a rewind would make it work fairly well. I may have to run the experiment. But I think it would be adequate as shipped (if you get lucky and it’s a good wind. Odds are maybe 50/50. Get two?)

Not necessary, but a nice touch. Gives some ESC cooling instead of just sealiing it into the bottom pouch.

The easiest way to make it is to cut some EPP strips — not very big — and glue them to the bottom of the wing, forming two ridges.

Then just glue another piece to the top of those ridges to form the scoop. Trim off the excess. Round to taste.

Note: Gluing to the formed surfaces of the Wild Wing requires a pretty good glue. It’s surprisingly resistant to stuff like Canopy Glue (which works great on interior joins). So far Goop and UHU Creativ have proven to work. Any contact-type cement should be good, including GWS glue. I have found Epoxy works, but not as well. You’ll have to ask Mike about Hot Melt Glue.

Also, if you know you’re starting a build and tell me ahead of time I can put in an order. Probably take two weeks to get here and a couple of days to unwind/wind/check/solder. (Unwinding is the worst of it. Chinese mfgs have a weird fixation on slopping glue all over motors. I have no idea why, but the Middle Kingdom Knows Best).

You’ll also need a prop adapter, so I’ll toss one in for $25 total. The motor mount comes with the motor. This deal is a public service _only_ for people who are building wildwings to fly in the Baylands Airwar Running Fight.

Come to think of it, that’s actually cheaper than trading for two motors because of UH/HC/HK shipping costs… well, if you want to toss in a miniEZconnect or something else, that would be fine too. Or not.

Dave